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So what French cuisine does for chefs in the West, Indian cuisine can do for chefs in this part of the world also. You can literally smell the spice route there. Nevertheless, behind every dish there are cooking techniques based on centuries of Indian history; techniques that have crossed into Thailand and, over time, influenced much of Asia. She was particularly struck by the use of a lacto-fermented quince to squeeze over fish instead of lime. Indian food has the tools, the resources, to form the basis of something modern, something more relevant. Thailand is a place where Arora has always felt at home, particularly since her travels to the north of the country, where its strong connections with India are most evident because of historic spice routes. As the only Indian female head chef to have earned a Michelin star, by way of her success Arora highlights the underrepresentation of her gender at the top end of the restaurant sector. She is happiest when diners react with surprise to her dishes and recognise the level of thought put into every element of her dishes.

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